How to Replace Drum Brake Hardware Kit: DIY Guide

Drum brake hardware kits contain the springs, clips, pins, and fasteners that hold brake shoes in place and control their movement, and replacing them is an intermediate-level DIY project that typically takes 2–4 hours depending on brake condition and corrosion. This guide provides general procedural guidance; specific tools, torque specifications, fastener sequences, and assembly methods vary significantly by vehicle make and model, and you must consult your vehicle's service manual and the kit's instruction sheet before starting work. Because drums brakes are a safety-critical system, if you have no prior experience with brake repairs, have a qualified, certified mechanic perform or inspect this work—improper assembly can result in complete brake failure.

What You'll Need

Tools

  • Socket set with matching ratchet and extensions
  • Torque wrench (click-type or beam)
  • Brake drum removal tool or puller (many drums slide off; some require a puller)
  • Spring removal pliers or brake spring tool
  • Brake shoe adjuster tool (star wheel adjuster)
  • Screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips)
  • Jack and jack stands
  • Wheel chocks
  • Brake cleaner spray (aerosol or pump bottle)
  • Work light or headlamp

Parts & Materials

  • Drum brake hardware kit (includes return springs, hold-down springs, anchor pins, clips, adjusters, and fasteners—verify kit contents match your brake design)
  • Brake cleaner
  • Shop towels or lint-free rags
  • High-temperature brake lubricant or grease (optional, for backing plate contact points)
  • Safety glasses and work gloves

Before You Begin

  • Park your vehicle on level, solid ground, engage the parking brake firmly, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels to prevent any possibility of the vehicle rolling.
  • Raise the vehicle using a floor jack placed on a frame rail or reinforced lifting point, then secure it with jack stands positioned under the frame or suspension member—never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  • Remove the wheel and inspect the drum for cracks, scoring, or excessive rust; a drum removal tool may be needed if the drum is corroded or stuck, and gentle tapping with a rubber mallet often helps break the seal.
  • Safety notice: Brake system work is safety-critical, and a mistake during hardware installation can result in brake failure, loss of stopping ability, and serious injury or death. If you are not experienced with brake repairs, have a qualified, ASE-certified mechanic perform or supervise this work.

Step-by-Step: How to Replace Drum Brake Hardware Kit

  1. Prepare the vehicle and remove the brake drum. Raise the vehicle safely with a jack, support it securely on jack stands, and remove the wheel. Spray penetrating oil around the drum's inner edge if it appears corroded or stuck, wait a few minutes, then tap the drum gently with a rubber mallet to break the corrosion seal. Slide the drum straight off the brake shoes; if it won't budge, use a drum removal tool to pull it evenly.
  2. Inspect the brake shoes and backing plate. Examine the brake shoes for uneven wear, cracks, or glazing—if friction material is worn to the steel backing or is cracked, shoes should be replaced as part of this job. Inspect the backing plate (the metal platform bolted to the axle) for cracks, severe scoring, or heavy corrosion; minor rust can be cleaned, but deep cracks or pitting may require backing plate replacement by a professional.
  3. Remove old springs and clips using appropriate pliers. Using brake spring pliers or a dedicated spring tool, carefully unclip and remove the return springs (usually two, one on each side), hold-down springs, adjuster spring, and any brake shoe retaining clips. Springs hold tension, so work slowly and keep your hands clear of snap-back; take a photo before disassembly to aid reassembly, especially if you're unfamiliar with the mechanism.
  4. Remove and set aside brake shoes if necessary for full hardware replacement. Depending on your kit, you may need to detach brake shoes from the backing plate to access all hardware anchor points; if shoes are being replaced, remove them now by unbolting or unclipping them from the wheel cylinder and adjuster mechanism. If only hardware is being replaced, you may keep shoes in place for easier reinstallation—refer to your kit instructions and service manual.
  5. Clean the backing plate thoroughly with brake cleaner. Spray the entire backing plate with brake cleaner and wipe it down with shop towels, removing all dust, debris, corrosion, and old grease. A clean backing plate ensures new springs and hardware seat properly and reduces squeaking; use a brush to scrub stubborn rust spots, then wipe clean again.
  6. Install new return springs and anchor pins from the hardware kit. Position new anchor pins (the posts that spring ends hook onto) into their mounting holes on the backing plate and secure them according to the kit diagram or your service manual. Install return springs by hooking their ends over the anchor pins and ensuring they are seated fully and evenly; return spring orientation and tension are crucial for proper brake shoe centering and must match your vehicle's design. Consult your vehicle's service manual for the exact placement, order of assembly, and any torque specifications for anchor fasteners, as these vary widely.
  7. Install brake shoes and secure with new hold-down springs and hardware. Position brake shoes on the backing plate, sliding them under any guide pins or clips, then insert new hold-down springs from the kit through the shoe web and backing plate, securing them with the provided fasteners or clips. Ensure shoes are centered and seated flush against the backing plate and that hold-down hardware is tight enough to prevent movement but loose enough that shoes can move freely when actuated.
  8. Install the adjuster screw assembly and connect the adjuster spring. Insert the new adjuster screw and starwheel (the adjustable mechanism that changes brake shoe spacing) between the shoes, typically near the bottom of the brake assembly, and thread it or clip it into place according to kit instructions. Connect the new adjuster spring from the kit, ensuring it is hooked properly and has tension; test the adjuster mechanism by spinning the starwheel—it should turn freely without binding.
  9. Reconnect and tension all return springs. Reattach return springs to their anchor points and shoe tabs, ensuring even tension on both sides so shoes are centered on the backing plate. Check that shoes can move slightly in and out (toward and away from the drum) when you push on them gently—if springs are too tight, shoes will drag; if too loose, they won't return properly after brake application.
  10. Reinstall the brake drum and wheel, then torque fasteners to specification. Carefully slide the brake drum back onto the shoes, making sure it seats fully and doesn't bind; reinstall the wheel and thread all lug nuts by hand first, then torque them to your vehicle's specified value using a torque wrench (consult your service manual—this varies by make, model, and wheel design, typically between 80–140 lb-ft for domestic vehicles). Lower the vehicle fully, set the parking brake, and test brake operation slowly in a safe area before driving at normal speeds to ensure brakes are functioning properly.

Tips for a Successful Drum Brake Hardware Kit Replacement

  • Always replace all springs in the kit together—never reuse old springs alongside new ones, as mismatched spring tension can cause uneven brake wear, dragging, or poor brake feel.
  • Take several photos before disassembly, particularly close-ups of spring positions, anchor points, and adjuster orientation; these references are invaluable when reassembling, especially if this is your first time working on drums.
  • Apply a thin coat of high-temperature brake lubricant to backing plate contact points where shoes slide or pivot—this reduces noise and wear—but never let lubricant contact brake friction surfaces or the drum inner wall, as it will destroy braking power.
  • After reassembly, adjust brake shoe spacing so the drum barely slides on without binding, then back off the adjuster slightly; the self-adjusting mechanism will take care of spacing during normal brake applications.

When to Call a Professional

If you have no prior experience with brake system work, have a qualified mechanic perform this job—brake mistakes can result in failure. Stop work and consult a professional if you discover the backing plate is cracked, heavily pitted, or corroded to the point of weakness; if brake lines show damage, corrosion, or leaks; if the wheel cylinder (which actuates the shoes) is leaking brake fluid; or if the parking brake mechanism is broken or inoperative. Additionally, if the brake drum is severely scored, cracked, or oversize and cannot be machined back into safe limits, it must be replaced by someone with proper equipment. When in doubt about any step or finding, have a certified mechanic inspect your work before driving—the small cost of an inspection is far less than the risk of brake failure.

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