Lug Nut Torque Calculator
Find the right torque for your wheel studs, in foot-pounds and newton-metres, with the tightening pattern for your lug count.
Your studs
- Never lubricate wheel studs unless the manufacturer says to. Oil on the threads makes a torque reading meaningless and badly overloads the stud.
- Torque with the vehicle on the ground. Tightening in the air lets the wheel cock on the hub.
- An impact gun is for removal. Final tightening is a torque wrench job, and torque sticks are an approximation at best.
Wheels coming loose is a serious failure mode. Use the torque figure in your vehicle's service manual where one exists, tighten in the correct pattern with the vehicle on the ground, and re-torque after 50 miles on any wheel that has been off.
Both too loose and too tight are failures
Too loose and the wheel moves against the hub, the stud holes elongate, and the nuts back off. Too tight and you stretch the stud past its elastic range, so it never returns to the right clamping load and eventually snaps. Overtightening also warps brake rotors, which is where a large share of pulsing pedals come from.
Match the seat
Conical nuts are the most common, with a 60 degree taper that centres the nut as it pulls down. Ball or radius seats have a rounded profile and are used by several European and Japanese manufacturers. Flat seats need a washer.
Put a conical nut in a ball seat and the two surfaces touch on a narrow ring instead of across the taper. It will feel tight and it will come loose. This is one of the most common mistakes with aftermarket wheels.
Pattern and re-torque
Work across the wheel rather than around it, so the wheel pulls down flat against the hub. Snug everything first, then torque in two passes. Do it with the car on the ground so the wheel cannot tip on the studs.
Then check them again after 50 miles. Wheels settle as they heat cycle, particularly aftermarket alloys, and clamping load drops as they do.
Frequently asked questions
What torque should lug nuts be?
It depends on stud size. M12x1.5 studs, which are very common, want 80 to 90 ft-lb. M14x1.5 wants 100 to 120. Larger truck studs go higher still. A vehicle specific figure from the service manual always beats a general table.
Should I grease wheel studs?
No, unless the manufacturer specifically says to. A torque figure assumes dry threads, and lubricant can put 20 to 30% more clamping load into the stud than the wrench reads. Clean dry threads are what you want, and a wire brush on rusty studs is fine.
Do I need to re-torque after fitting new wheels?
Yes, after about 50 miles. The wheel beds down against the hub through the first few heat cycles and clamping load drops. This matters most on aftermarket alloys and on any wheel fitted with new studs.
Can I use an impact gun to tighten lug nuts?
Use it to remove them, not to set final torque. Impact guns vary enormously with air pressure, battery charge and tool condition. Torque sticks help but are still an approximation. Finish with a torque wrench.
Everything on this page is an estimate worked out from the numbers you entered and typical figures for the conditions you picked. Your vehicle, your parts and your conditions will differ. Check anything you intend to act on against the manufacturer's specification, the service manual, or a qualified technician. Verifying the result before relying on it is up to you.